Best Information About Aquarium Water Cycle & Tap Water


Aquarium Water Cycle

Water is obviously important to fish, and as such, it becomes very important to aquarists. There are some basics every aquarist should know about.




The Aquarium  Water Cycle 

Aquarium Water Cycle tank is an essential process. The idea behind it is simplicity itself – if there’s nothing in your tank to eat waste, but lots of creatures to produce it, then waste will pile up and pollute your tank. What creatures eat waste?


A new tank is fairly sterile. If you set it up, fill it with water and add a full
population of fish, it will be a thing of beauty. It won’t take long until that
changes. You may begin to find fish dead from no apparent cause.


You may have epidemics of Ich, fungus or fin rot. Or your fish may develop red gills, and begin to gasp at the surface, as toxic ammonia destroys their respiratory


What’s going on?

It’s an avoidable problem, but one that puts a lot of aquariums water cycle into garage sales. How do we work around it?


Time is your ally here, along with patience. A good start is to ‘inoculate’ your
tank with friendly bacteria. For this, you can use gravel or plants from an
established tank, or one of the commercial bacterial starter cultures on the


Bacteria spread quickly, but not quickly enough to deal with the kind of
pollution a large group of fish will produce in a tiny amount of water. The
safest approach is to stock lightly, and slowly. Start with 25% of your planned
population. Keep them for a week, feeding them normally.


The wastes they excrete will produce toxic ammonia, fine food for our friendly bacteria. The well-fed bacteria will spread, converting the toxin to nitrate, a less dangerous pollutant. With a program of regular water changes, you can keep the nitrates under control.




As the invisible bacteria colonize your filter and Aquarium Water Cycle, you can gradually add more fish, moving to a full population within three to four weeks. An
the ammonia test kit can be a useful tool during this process, especially if you
have hard, alkaline water, in which ammonia is a bigger problem.


Really, Aquarium Water Cycle help you have to do to cycle your tank. Just restrain your desire to fill your aquarium water Cycle with beautiful fish, for a short couple of weeks, and you can start on the process of enjoying your pets for years.


Water hardness

In nature, the water in different regions will vary. In areas where the water
table passes through limestone or other dissolving rock, the water will be
hard. Measuring hardness is problematic.


If you’ve ever encountered difficulties due to the United States using the Imperial measurement system while the rest of the world uses Metric, consider the mess created as the system used to grade hardness varies from country to country.


German degrees of hardness are different from French degrees, and so on. One thing an aquarist can do is fall back on the measurement of p.p.m. (parts per million), and get hold of conversion tables for European texts.


Soft water is found in areas where the water table is supplied by rain. Many
cities with softwater add alkalinity and hardness, as the acidity that usually
goes with softness is hard on municipal water pipes.


Many urban areas have the water of moderate hardness, ranging from 100ppm to
180ppm. People with well-water will often suffer from hard water – 190 ppm to liquid rock.






The pH scale is the measure of water acidity. Aquarium Water Cycle regions like the Amazon, West Africa, and parts of Asia can have very acid water, ranging from pH 3 to 6. Their water is also soft. A reading of pH 7.0 is considered neutral, and many North American cities will be in the 6.6 to 7.8 range.


Central America and the cichlid-filled Great Lakes of East Africa have alkaline
water, in the pH 8.0 range.


We can measure pH in several ways. The most efficient is a well-calibrated
electronic pH monitor, but that’s an expense few aquarists want to spring for.
Your Aquarium Water Cycle store should have easy to use chemical test kits that work by providing a rough, working idea of your pH by comparing chemically treated water to color charts. Follow the instructions closely.


Remember that the difference in acidity between pH 7.2 and 7.4 is rather large. Sudden pH changes can hurt or even kill your fish.



Tap water

The objective of chlorinating drinking water is to kill everything in it. In some
areas, chlorine isn’t enough, and a chemical called chloramine is added. Will
these chemicals kill your fish? Sometimes. Chloramine, because it doesn’t
break down as quickly as chlorine, is especially dangerous to the gills of your


As well, city water treatments will often reduce the bacterial populations in
your tank, harming the beneficial bacteria in your filter.


Allowing water to sit, or aerating it vigorously with a pump and airstone will
cause most of the chlorine to dissolve. It will not affect the more toxic


Aquarium Water Cycle conditioners are safe and cheap and highly recommended. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.


Playing with water


If you live with hard water, then the logical move is to keep African lake
cichlids or livebearers. Unless you have a lot of experience, modifying your
water becomes a chore. You can buy a Reverse Osmosis unit or an Ion
exchange system, but like exercise bicycles, these things are easy to buy but
hard to keep using.


It’s easy to harden soft water, but you need test kits to see that your
modifications are consistent.




Sometimes, Aquarium Water Cycle it’s best to study your fish, learn their needs and live with what
nature has given you by choosing pets that will thrive in the conditions you
can be sure to offer them.


Medical and care advice on this article is for your knowledge and information only. It is not a substitute for a veterinary appointment or an actual diagnosis for your pet. If you feel your pet has a health or behavior problem please consult your veterinarian immediately for specific advice tailored to your individual pet.



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